Full joinery details: ⚙ Advanced → Joinery tab

15 steps total, estimated 4.6 hours of work (±50% depending on skill level).

1. 01Prep stock

   Select and inspect stock

   ~8 min

   Working in Pine. Pick boards with clean, straight grain, no major knots, and stress-released stock (no edge bow). Leave 5–10% trim waste — don't skimp on this buffer for larger projects.

   Tools:5m Tape Measure (Giant German Premium)
   • ·Moisture content must be ≤12% (8–10% ideal in dry climates). High-MC stock will shrink after glue-up and split tenons.
   • ·Save the cleanest grain / colour for visible faces (top, seats, doors).
   • ·Avoid knots > 10 mm on load-bearing structural parts.
   • ·Hardwoods (oak / beech): sharpen tools before working — dull edges chip the stock and risk injury. Softwoods (pine / fir): raise plane angle and slow the cut to avoid tear-out.
2. 02Prep stock

   Joint and thickness-plane

   ~15 min

   Joint one reference face plus one 90° edge (square to the face), then thickness-plane the opposite face parallel to the reference. No jointer / planer? Buy pre-milled (S4S) stock and skip ahead.

   Tools:JointerThicknesser / PlanerStainless Steel Ruler 30cm
   • ·Joint the reference face first; check with a try-square that the second face is 90° to it before moving on.
   • ·Planer passes ≤ 1.5 mm (≤ 1 mm in hardwood) — multiple light passes leave less tear-out than one heavy one.
   • ·Leave 0.5 mm for sanding — don't plane to final thickness; sanding will remove another 0.3–0.5 mm.
3. 03Cut to length

   Cut to length — 15 parts

   ~54 min

   Cut milled stock into individual parts per the cut list. **Note:** parts with tenons already include the tenon stock — don't add length. Mark each part on the side with its part-id (e.g., leg-l-f / apron-front) right after cutting so dry-fit doesn't turn into a guessing game.

   Tools:5m Tape Measure (Giant German Premium)Stainless Steel Ruler 30cmTemple Tool 180mm Double-Edge Ryoba Saw (Rip + Crosscut, Japanese Steel)
   • ·Cut longest parts first — long stock can become short, but short stock can't grow back.
   • ·Mark the cut line with a try-square + pencil or marking knife, and keep the saw kerf on the waste side.
   • ·Check both ends square after each cut — a plane can fix a slightly out-of-square end now, but not after glue-up.
   • ·The cut list shows two numbers per part: "visible size" and "cut size". Joinery parts will differ by the tenon length — cut to the cut size.
   • ⚠️ Double-check the cut list before every saw cut — you can't un-cut a board.
4. 04Layout

   Lay out the joinery (tenons + mortises)

   ~10 min

   Mark every tenon and mortise from the joinery detail drawings. Check every layout against the three-view drawings before any saw or chisel touches the wood.

   Tools:Single-Beam Marking Gauge (Essential for Joinery)Stainless Steel Ruler 30cm
   • ·Mark from a reference face: pick one face per part as the datum and measure every layout from it. Stops 0.5 mm errors from compounding.
   • ·Use a marking gauge or marking knife — pencil lines are 0.3 mm wide, and the saw will cut wherever the pencil is widest.
   • ·Cut a shallow V with a marking knife on shoulder / saw lines; the saw teeth fall into the V and won't drift.
   • ·Lay out all joints of the same kind in one session (e.g., all 8 tenons on the 4 aprons) — avoids tool / gauge changeovers.
   • ⚠️ Layout errors can be erased now; saw cuts can only be patched with shavings and glue.
5. 05Cut joinery

   Cut Through tenon (4 joints)

   ~37 min

   Tenon goes all the way through the mortise and is visible on the far side. Cut the tenons first, then the mortises, then dry-fit.

   Tools:Temple Tool 180mm Double-Edge Ryoba Saw (Rip + Crosscut, Japanese Steel)Western Chisel SetWhite Rubber Mallet (Non-Marring)
   • ·Mark and chop the mortise from both faces — chop halfway from each side and meet in the middle, otherwise the back face blows out.
   • ·Ease the tenon end with a 0.2 mm chamfer so it guides into the mortise; tap home with a mallet.
   • ·The 1–2 mm of tenon sticking through can stay as a design feature or be flushed off and sanded.
6. 06Cut joinery

   Cut Blind tenon (2 joints)

   ~19 min

   Tenon stops inside the mortise (depth ≤ 2/3 of mother thickness). Cut tenons first, then mortises, then dry-fit.

   Tools:Temple Tool 180mm Double-Edge Ryoba Saw (Rip + Crosscut, Japanese Steel)Western Chisel SetWhite Rubber Mallet (Non-Marring)
   • ·Mortise depth ≤ 2/3 of mother thickness — go deeper and you punch through.
   • ·Tape a depth stop on the chisel before chopping so you don't overshoot.
   • ·Tenon should be 1 mm shorter than the mortise to leave a glue space — bottoming out starves the joint.
7. 07Dry-fit

   Dry-fit (no glue)

   ~11 min

   Assemble every joint without glue first. Target fit: pushes in by hand, seats with a light mallet tap, takes some effort to pull out. **Pare tenons, never mortises** — mortises are mother structure, you ruin them and the part is scrap.

   Tools:White Rubber Mallet (Non-Marring)Western Chisel SetStainless Steel Ruler 30cm5m Tape Measure (Giant German Premium)
   • ·Dry-fit in the same sequence you'll use for glue-up — sub-assemblies first (leg frames, drawer boxes), then combine.
   • ·Check 90° at every corner with a try-square; if it's off, you can still adjust.
   • ·Measure both diagonals across the carcase — equal = square, unequal = racked.
   • ·Tight tenons: pare lightly, 0.2 mm at a time, testing between cuts. Aggressive paring leaves a loose joint.
   • ⚠️ Don't force-tight tenons home with a mallet — glue makes wood expand and the mother will split.
8. 08Glue-up

   Final glue-up (combine sub-assemblies)

   ~21 min

   Combine the cured sub-assemblies (frames / drawer boxes / doors) with the main structure (top / sides / back). Thin PVA on tenon walls and inside mortises — 1 mm coat is plenty; thicker just squeezes out and is hard to clean up.

   Tools:Taibang No.2 PVA Wood GlueHeavy-Duty Malleable Iron F-Clamps × 4Stainless Steel Ruler 30cmWhite Rubber Mallet (Non-Marring)
   • ·Lay out all clamps before opening the glue bottle — PVA open time is 8–10 minutes, no time to hunt for clamps.
   • ·Wipe glue squeeze-out with a damp rag immediately — dried glue blocks stain and finish.
   • ·Measure diagonals right after clamping — if racked, release one clamp and re-clamp to pull it square before the glue sets.
   • ·24-hour cure for full strength before releasing clamps and sanding. 6 hours gets you to handle-able but only half-strength.
   • ⚠️ Glue-and-clamp the entire assembly in one continuous pass (within 10 minutes). Don't pause.
   • ⚠️ Pad clamp jaws — bare metal will dent the finished face permanently.
9. 09Sand

   Sand pass 1 (120 grit — remove plane marks)

   ~21 min

   Use 120 grit to remove plane marks, saw marks, glue residue. **Sand with the grain** — cross-grain scratches will not come out later.

   Tools:Fuji Star Japanese Sandpaper Set 120–600 GritRandom Orbital Sander
   • ·Hardwoods (oak / beech) with deep plane marks: start at 100 grit. Softwoods (pine / fir): 120 grit is fine.
   • ·Use a random-orbit sander for efficiency; corners and edges by hand to avoid rounding them over.
   • ·Ease sharp edges with a 1 mm chamfer — sharp arrises cut hands and lose finish first.
10. 10Sand

    Sand pass 2 (180 grit — refine)

    ~17 min

    Move to 180 grit. Fully remove the 120-grit scratches before moving on — leftover scratches show through every finish coat.

    Tools:Fuji Star Japanese Sandpaper Set 120–600 GritRandom Orbital Sander
11. 11Sand

    Sand pass 3 (240 grit — ready for finish)

    ~13 min

    240 grit final pass to prep for oil / finish. Vacuum and wipe with a tack cloth — any dust left will get sealed into the first coat as grit.

    Tools:Fuji Star Japanese Sandpaper Set 120–600 GritTack Cloth
12. 12Finish

    First oil coat

    ~15 min

    Thin coat of wood oil (OSMO Polyx-Oil / Tried-and-True / Watco Danish Oil) with a lint-free rag. Let it sit 15 minutes for the wood to drink, then wipe all surplus off with a clean rag (must wipe, or it dries sticky). Cure 12–24 hours.

    Tools:Otani Vaton Wood Protection OilLint-free Cloth
    • ⚠️ **Oil-soaked rags can spontaneously combust!** Lay them flat to dry or submerge in water before disposal — never ball them up. The exothermic oxidation will start a fire.
13. 13Finish

    Burnish with 0000 steel wool

    ~9 min

    Once coat 1 is fully cured (24 h), burnish the whole surface with 0000 steel wool to knock back raised grain. Wipe clean with a dry rag. This step is what makes the surface feel silky.

    Tools:0000 Steel WoolLint-free Cloth
14. 14Finish

    Second oil coat

    ~15 min

    Repeat coat 1: thin coat → 15 min → wipe surplus → 24 h cure. After two coats the surface is noticeably smooth with a warm sheen. Two coats are enough for daily use; high-wear surfaces (tabletops, seats) want a third.

    Tools:Otani Vaton Wood Protection OilLint-free Cloth
15. 15Finish

    Final inspection and sign-off

    ~9 min

    Once all glue and oil are fully cured (~72 hours total), do a final check.

    Tools:Stainless Steel Ruler 30cm5m Tape Measure (Giant German Premium)Spirit Level
    • ·Square: try-square on all four corners; diagonals equal.
    • ·Level: spirit level on the top / seat — should sit flat in any direction.
    • ·Stability: rock the piece — every foot should sit flat. If one leg lifts, plane the longest one down with a card scraper.
    • ·Door reveals even at 3 mm, opens and closes smoothly.
    • ·Finish feels silky-smooth, no grit or missed spots.

Above is the auto-generated standard build sequence. A future version will offer “AI deep-dive / YT script” buttons where Claude adds practitioner tips and filming notes.

Shop links go to the Wooden Ren carpenter store (TWD, ships from Taiwan). Prices are cached — actual price on the store page wins.